Daily Maintenance -

• Ensure oil is mixed with petrol while filling up (if not done, the engine could be ruined from the rings to the block). Oil preferences have many opinions.
• Regularly check that the rear tyre has 35psi and front tyre has 28psi (if not maintained, we can run the danger of warping the rims and buggering the tyres)
• Service the bike at a good mech every 6 months/depends on the running (a mech who will wash the bike thoroughly, change the engine oil, grease the chain and nipples, open the front and ear brake drums, sand paper the liners/change them if needed (always see to it that both liners are more or less evenly worn out), clean the carb and check the clutch, accelerator and brake cables)

IMPORTANT - Petroleum products especially kerosene and diesel are known to have a very destructive effect on rubber compound materials. Therefore, for those who carry out diesel washes on their bikes, take precautions to ensure that the rubber components do not come in contact with the same. Water washing of the rubber components can be done if required.

Running in a bike / new piston  

The whole idea of running in of a bike involves exposing the engine to all RPM levels in all gears, without surprising the engine. So, essentially it boils down to starting from low RPM/speed levels, and then gradually building up to higher speed and RPM levels.. at all gears.

Normal Method of running in -

To ride the bike about 1200-1500 Kms with 60 ML 20W50 oil and the carb setting to near overflow (about 20 Km/lr for RK) at 40Km/hr. In a case scenario, a Roadking had just finished 900 Kms after a rebore. The engine seized 3 or 4 times during the first 300 Kms when the rider used to take 20-25 Kms run in a stretch and he had to wait for a while (10 mins or so), cool it down and then move again. This happens when the piston with the new rings are too tight but is a good sign for a perfect set later in the long run. Do not give more trottle while stationary (with engine on) because it's almost similar to riding the bike above 40 Km/hr.

The best ever option -

Let the engine run at slow speed (idling) with 1.5-2 Litres of 60ML 20W50 oil mixed petrol with the same carb setting (overflow-rich in) on centre stand. It may take 2-3 hrs or even more for the engine to shut down. After about an hour, slightly increase the engine speed by adjusting the air screw clockwise. Let it run. Repeat the process at 300-400 Kms interval, until we reach the 1500 Kms. mark. The main disadvantage here is the bike won't move and the entire process is rather slow, smoky and noisy.

Unconventional Method

Tried and trusted by the old hands, CASTOR OIL is available at any medical store in 100/50 ml bottles. The trick is to use 100 ml for every 10 lts of fuel. This is done every alternate time fuel is filled at 10 ltrs each time. After about 50 lts, try running the bike without the castor oil. It should not seize.  However if the bike still feels like its getting hot and seizy, start the castor oil process again. If done every alternate time, we get to test the bike's running with and without the castor oil use. Normally the engines should free up before we touch the 50lts or 500ml castor oil mark. Unfortunately this process can stink quite a bit. Also as organic oils liberate plenty of carbon after burning, resulting in deposits of carbon in piston and engine, it could result in the engine missing or jerking due to poor spark from the plug. Hence the carbon deposits in the spark plug should be regularly cleaned out.

inputs from Anzal, Venkat & other Yezdi clubbers